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Mount Thielsen, Oregon (9182 ft)

Mount Thielsen from PCNST

Umpqua National Forest

Route: South Face via Mount Thielsen Trail

Start at the Mount Thielsen Trailhead on the east side of Highway 138 near Diamond Lake. Note that the Mount Thielsen Trailhead and the trail, itself, have been relocated since the USGS Mount Thielsen 7.5 minute topo map was published in 1985. Take the Mount Thielsen Trail east 4 miles to the junction with the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCNST). Find a climber's trail here and follow it up along the West Ridge.

Above timberline the trail climbs scree slopes. Generally bear left at multiple trail junctions to stay near the top of the ridge. Above a yellowish band of poor footing follow a trail up a slabby ridge. The trail then traverses east (right) below the summit pinnacle and above loose talus slopes towards an obvious notch below the South Face. Climb up through this notch to find a ledge below the 80' South Face.

This face has several climbing variations on generally sound rock. From the ledge climb up about 10 feet to a rising traverse on ledges leading left 40-50 feet. Then climb up and to the right, passing above an overhanging block, to the ridge line. A ramp leads up to the left to the blocky summit.

As always in the Oregon Cascades, test every hold and keep three points of contact with the rock at all times. Hand and foot holds can dislodge at any time.

On the descent downclimb the same route on the South Face and follow the climber's trail down to the PCNST and the Mount Thielsen Trail.

Thielsen summit and notch leading to South Face
Mount Thielsen summit, South Face


  1. Thomas, Jeff, Oregon High: A Climbing Guide, Keep Climbing Press, 1991.
  2. USGS Volcanoes, Mount Thielsen: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Thielsen/